– Skate Park Murals Instructions / 100% acrylic primer paint and top coat paint:
2) repair any surface cracks with a hybridized Portland cement product that uses an acrylic admix (Ardex or Patchcrete is recommended)
3) spray-on the primer coat with a 5 gallon pro paint sprayer
4) acrylic top coat
– Serial Colorz, Le Havre:
” 1) dans un premier temps les plans inclinés du skate park ont été nettoyés au karcher.
2) ensuite nous avons appliqués une peinture special pour les sols.
3) pour la réalisation des graffs nous avons distribués des sprays normaux pour le graffs ( montana 94 ).
4) nous n’avons pas mis de vernis ou enduits une fois les peintures terminées. Il y a toujours un risque que ca glisse après les réalisations. avec la pratique l’adhérence revient.”
– Lisa Looser, Razzle Dazzle
” the paint I used is emulsion paint, and I mixed it with water, (it was still black enough) the white part isn’t painted, thats the concrete as it was and i didn’t prepare it before….my friends told me the paint is already coming off at some little spots. Acrylic paint maybe would have last longer, but that makes it really slippery, so i would never use that! spraypaint might be an option…If the walls are concrete, I would still take any water based color, so it “sinks” into the material,… next time i would take better quality…”
– Avoid latex paints: “Peels Badly.” – S. McNutt
– Pushback: “We do not discuss paint or coatings for skateparks on the website as we do not recommend them under any circumstances.” Tony Gembeck
– Response: Some artists have pointed out that slippery surfaces are only a temporary issue after paint application. Nevertheless, as some skaters question the value of permanent paint on skate-able areas, perhaps the project should shift focus to Temporary Layer 2…?
Permanent Layer 1 (bottom): Epoxy? Acrylic? concrete stain?
(For concrete floors = if new, treatment with muriatic (hydrochloric) acid prior to painting) then epoxy concrete paint (durable) but LONG drying time
– Specialty Acrylic Emulsion
– Gravitex coating plus overpaintable stone chip protector
– Binder= potassium silicate?
– “Peinture pour marquage routier” / DDE peinture de la ligne blanche
– ASTM test for scratch resistance/ ISO 19252
Temporary Layer 2 (top): Acrylic
Erasable multi-layer polymer – “poorly adhered coating that would come off under mechanical stress”
– Work in wear; less resistance on top
– Take layer 1 paint w/ filler (chalk, May Miller Liquid Chalk Paint Additive) to make it softer/ less wear-resistant (to scratches)
– water-based concrete paint, water-based acrylic paint (Robert Cain) should only be applied when temperature is above 10°C and relative humidity is less than 80%
– sealer → primer → masonry paint
– Degradeable material – “consider an additive that will respond to UV to degrade the polymer (Titanium oxide is one example)”
– Liquid Chalk Paint (1: cornstarch, 1: baking soda, 4: water + food colouring/ washable watercolors) + sm. amount of flour? Application via spray bottles, but mixture is too runny for stencils.
– 2 TBLS Calcium Carbonate : 1 TBLS water : add to 1 cup of latex paint (ex. Sherwin Williams Color to Go ) OR 1 part primer : 1 part spackle : 1 part paint.
– 5 : calcined gypsum (plaster of paris) :: 3 : cool water, whisked together